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Watch crystal: sapphire or mineral glass?

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Is there a definitive test for sapphire crystal?

We are often asked how one can tell the difference between sapphire crystal and mineral glass. Various 'internet experts' offer a variety of crystal tests - from tapping, heating, touching - even licking (yuck!)- to what is known as 'the definite' test: scratching the watch crystal with a hard and sharpen nail.

Of course, there is a simple and PROPER way to tell what the crystal is made of: with the help of a diamond tester, the result will be known in a second. A hand-held diamond tester checks the thermal conductivity and the result is displayed on a scale.

Bad news: most likely, you won't have one in your tool box, but the good news is: your local jeweller most likely will. The diamond tester is commonly used in the jewellery trade. If you ask your jeweller to perform a crystal test, he would surely be happy to help. (While there, place an order for a 3Ct diamond ring, that would make his day :)

The test is a straight forward one. Like natural sapphire, a synthetic sapphire watch crystal will 'excite' the LED meter to the very last red bar, just under the "diamond" level. Mineral glass will result in no lit LED lights. And it is as simple as that!

Contrary to commonly held opinion, that even a hard synthetic sapphire crystal like the one fitted on a Rolex watch CAN be scratched. If you are still tempted to go for a sharp nail test, do it in the privacy of your home. There is nothing more embarrassing than scratching your brand new Submariner in front of a dozen of your office mates. Unless you want to be remembered as "the watch guy".

Photos below show the reading on sapphire crystal front and mineral glass case back. The last one is diamond test.


Back to roots: There is something special about being known as the last watchmaker...

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My recent visit to my ex-homeland was yet another opportunity to reflect on my watchmaking roots.

As most of you know, I am a third generation watchmaker and both my father and grandfather are still alive and kicking.

My father can be best described as 'technologically redundant'. At the peak of his career, watchmaking made a sharp turn from mechanical watches to digital, battery operated timepieces. That meant a slow death for many skilled repairman who were forced to either adopt or disappear. According to them, battery replacement was nothing more than 'a job for a half-trained monkey'.

Surprisingly, my father quickly embraced the new trend with both hands! It was obvious that a quick battery replacement meant less hassle with customers, more pay per hour and a 5 hour siesta (a siesta is a short nap taken in the early afternoon, often after the midday meal).

It also allowed him to devote his life to his two only passions: good home made food and religious debating. Nowadays our family watch repair shop is frequently visited by farmers offering fresh daily produces, cheese and eggs, and keen Bible students. And according to my father, his early seventies are proving to be the best years of his life!

It goes without saying that a visit to my father's shop was both brief and formal. I guess my father felt the same - after all, second hand watch dealing in his books is at the same level of attractiveness as bacon.

A visit to my grandfather was really something I was looking forward to. A 320km drive was a small sacrifice to see the man who is still regarded as a true watchmaker.

Grandpa started his watchmaking apprenticeship in 1938 and spent his entire life working on mechanical watches. I saw him last 10 years ago when he was recovering from a serious illness. Today, he is probably the most enthusiastic 90 year old watchmaker you'll ever find.

For the entire time we talked watches. He was keen to learn about my business; the watches we sell, repairs, customers and the usual 'workshop' stuff.

Together, we browsed online our entire stock. While he was not overly impressed with Rolex or Omega, he patiently waited until we reached the "other" section. At this instance, I finally realized why I always loved Zenith watches: they are grandpa's favourite brand too! He was a bit disappointed that there were no Vacheron in stock, which is another brand he regards highly.

"Do you remember my Atmos clock, one I bough brand new in 1960?" - he proudly asked? Of course I did! Who can forget his stories about Jaeger Le-Coultre, the "one and only true maker of fine Swiss clocks and watches".

His most recent job: a repair to a pocket watch which came in with no balance assembly! In surgery, this would be called a heart transplant. "I had to start form scratch - do the math's, make the hair spring, modify a balance wheel, make a new balance staff. It took me almost 2 weeks, but the watch is now within 3 seconds per day!"

( My father shrugged his shoulders, opened another bottle of non-alcoholic kvas and started his lament with "... I would reject this job straight away..." at which point my mother kicked him out)

"Would you like to see my new set of drills?" Proudly, grandpa showed me a small container. A few seconds later, he was drilling a tube with an inside diameter of just 0.175 of a millimeter. On his hand-powered lathe, of course. "It comes with all attachments- have a look!"

"There is something special about being known as the last watchmaker in a radius of 30 km", he continued. "I am known as someone who does all 'impossible to repair jobs' for other watch repairers. Of course, there is no money in it (he could only charge 50 Euros for the two-week balance wheel job) but I have plenty of time, and after all, what else would I do?"

I showed him 'the most travelled watch' and explained the story behind the project. "This looks like Unitas 6497!" he proclaimed after turning the case back. He quickly put his eyeglass on: "...except it is now stamped ETA?" I explained that ETA bought Unitas in 1990 (or there about) but I was amazed with his attention to detail and willingness to stay updated. "We use to fix truck loads of Unitas. Fine movements, reliable and good timekeepers. No wonder they are back in fashion!".

The day passed quickly and it was time to head back east. The trip to grandpa's modest workshop was the highlight of my three week journey. It was also a great opportunity to introduce my boy to a real watchmaker. Who knows: maybe one day, he too, will decide to 'get into watches'. Choosing between selling, repairing un-repairable watches or battery fitting is not an easy choice :(

But after all, blood is thicker than water, and yes, time will tell.

Kurt Klaus: Watchmaking is still the same!

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As a premium brand in the international luxury watch segment, IWC has committed itself to the manufacture of top-quality timepieces. The website proudly states that IWC was founded in 1885 and that it now employs over 650 staff, including 180 watchmakers.

Standing in the form of a shop display filled with new IWC watches, one would be under the impression that the company history was paved with nothing but everlasting success and great designs.

However, like all other Swiss watchmakers, the reality was completely different- especially during the turbulent 70s.

Of course, it is easy to fall into a trap of generalization and by so, to "invent" historical events. This is why a report from someone who was not just an insider but actual 'actor' is a priceless testimony for both watch historians and watch enthusiasts.

A recently published interview with legendary IWC watchmaker Kurt Klaus gives a credible and authoritative recollection of the seventies and eighties.

Klaus started his career with IWC in 1957. Back then, IWC was under the 'rule' of Albert Pellaton. Pellaton was "Mr IWC" - a designer, head engineer, inventor and production manager. During the 1960s, IWC was on a quest to improve timekeeping of mechanical watches and to their credit, people in Schaffhausen were leading the Swiss pack.

However, Klaus remembers the 70s as a period where IWC was brought to it's knees by the advancement of battery operated watches. Out of 350 watchmakers and staff, 250 lost their job. The working week was reduced to just 4 days and the company was on the verge of collapse and bankruptcy. IWC stayed in business thanks to their contract with Porsche and the aviation industry. Or as Klaus puts it: "amongst other things, we also made watches".

In his spare time Klaus decided to continue work on mechanical pocket watches and complications. At that time, Albert Pellaton passed away and IWC lost it's technical director. Klaus remained the last and only engineer at IWC!

The management accepted his proposal for a new watch with a moon phase - based on a pocket watch design. In order to play safe, IWC set the production run to just 100 pieces, but even that seemed like almost unsellable quantity. The new model premiered at Basel fair in 1976 and to everyone's relief, IWC sold the entire lot by the end of second day.

According to Klaus, these were the most difficult days of Swiss watchmaking and IWC in particular. The recovery was slow and painful, but thanks to a small number of watch aficionados who preferred the traditional "ticking" watch over the accurate, but heartless battery operated 'novelty'.

In 1985 Klaus completed the design of the IWC Da Vinci perpetual calendar which was then regarded as 'something you can not get from a quartz watch'. As a reward for a successful design, Klaus was put in charge of a small but deducted team of watchmakers who re-positioned IWC's presence and led the renaissance of Swiss mechanical watchmaking. The next model on repertoire was a minute repeater. "This is how IWC became to be known as an engineering brand" said Klaus.

Future of watchmaking?
"I am an optimist. While we now use better materials and have advanced manufacturing facilities, the watchmaking itself is the same as it was 60 years ago, when I fist started. It's still the same".

Hermes: From horse harnesses to watches

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The French luxury goods maker Hermes is known for silk scarves and ties, enamel bracelets, leather bags and fragrances. The business started in 1837 as a horse harness work shop. But unlike other similar Paris shops, Thierry Hermes decided to produce the best leather goods he possibly could. A few years later, his client list included Czar of Russia, and European and American nobleman. The quality and design of Hermes' goods was so exceptional that he won two first place prizes at the Expositions Universelles in Paris.

In 1918 Hermes made its first garment: a golfing leather jacket with an exclusive zipper patent for the Prince of Wales. The 1930s were golden years for haute leather bags and Hermes will remain known as having designed the famous Grace Kelly bag. At the same time, Hermes hired famous watchmakers from Universal Geneva as the brands exclusive designer of timepieces.

Luc Perramond, CEO of La Montre Hermès states that Hermes "strategy in the last five years has been to progressively move towards the ‘prestigious’ segment of the watch industry". Since 2009 Hermes opened 20 boutiques dedicated only to watches.

In 2012, Hermes changed its policy regarding returns and exchanges of products - buyer may only exchange item for another color variant of the original purchase. No other exchanges are permitted and refunds are never offered.

Overlooking Hyde Park, Sydney, the Hermes boutique is located at 135 Elizabeth St.


Illustration by TanyaH

From San Francisco to Sydney: The voyage that inspired the IWC Plastiki

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8300 nautical miles
129 days
3083 hours on sea

What an amazing journey! Inspired by the great voyage of Kon Tiki, David de Rothschild and his team crossed the Pacific ocean in March 2010. sailing on a catamaran made of 12,500 plastic soda bottles!

While the design and build of the boat - made out of recycled plastic - presented a great engineering challenge in itself, this group of enthusiastic ecologists wanted to bring the attention of the world to a serious issue: the world's oceans are in serious threat from pollution, particularly from plastic waste.

The Pacific Ocean alone is polluted with 100 million tons of floating man-made trash, mostly plastic. The PLASTIKI message is simple: not just recycle, but rethink!

The official sponsor of the Plastiki project was IWC. To their credit, IWC is one of few Swiss watch manufacturers who are serious about the environment (Make sure to visit the IWC website for more details!).

With project Plastiki, IWC decided to take the partnership opportunity to produce a very unique, truly limited watch: the Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition “Adventure Ecology” in platinum. Total production run: 1 piece! IWC has donated the entire proceeds of the highest bid - 30,800 Euros - to “Sculpt the Future Foundation” as a way of paying tribute to the successful Plastiki expedition.

For the rest of us, IWC produced a limited run Ingenieur Automatic Mission Earth Edition of 1000 pieces.

The "Plastiki" is an impressive well-built, smart looking watch. Make no mistake: this is not a watch built for a Tom Cruise size man! It is built for a sportsman who enjoys quality engineering and precision "packed" in an admirable sized case. The strong and eye-catching colour scheme (navy-blue / orange) makes this IWC Ingenieur a perfect tool-watch at both sea, land and in the office!

The IWC Ingenieur is a 'must have in Sydney' watch - the obvious connection to Plastiki project and its San Francisco-Sydney voyage is just another great reason to add it to your collection.

What a great conversation piece: take it off your wrist and tell its story: while your guest may envy the size of your yacht, they'll surely admire your new-found love for the environment too :-) Our own Plastiki Ref IW3236-03 is fitted with original IWC bracelet (special order to IWC by it's previous owner. For more details, see clockmaker.com.au/w/k3316.html

[Image source: ThePlastiki.com]

Hublot: Cool and uber-cool

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Cool and uber-cool

When Ferrari signed a partnership program with Hublot last year, it clearly signaled that putting a red horse sticker on a watch dial is no longer the only requirement for a successful partnership.

Quite frankly - and rightly so - Ferrari was sick of Omega's lack of imagination and Girard Perregaux's laziness. Panerai went a bit further: they actually designed a watch which had some potential but this effort too lacked the most important ingredient: a true avant-garde look and high-tech guts that would leave us all speechless.

In just a few months, Hublot turned the watch-concept world upside down.


Image source: www.hublot.com

A Ferrari watch is everything and more you would expect it to be: a representation of uber-cool, limited and out of reach for even those who could (almost) afford it.

The LaFerrari MP05 is no longer a watch the Ferrari dealer could throw after the deal was closed or wrap it up as a gift for a new car owner's kid. It is a $300.000 limited edition of 50 Masterpieces which will humble even a new Ferrari owner and make him drool for the next one.

"Ah, if THAT is what they wanted... why the hell didn't they tell us?" said three Swiss makers banging their heads.

As they say in marketing: there is nothing worse than underestimating your client's advertising budget....

Obviously if you are a watch collector on a budget, MP05 will remain on your wish list for a few more months.

But here comes the good news: for a smart and savvy collector, snatching a Pre-Ferrari Hublot back form the times when the brand was still struggling to sell $5K watches (insert here the YEAR 2000) the piece below will provide a load of enjoyment.

Hublot MDM Super Professional 400m is one of those pieces which will one day be a highlight of your collection. In my books: a never to be repeated offer. This 13 years old watch is in mint, 10/10 appears to be unworn. Automatic, of course. On a rubber strap - of course! Otherwise, it would not be a Hublot!

Check it out at www.clockmaker.com.au

Charles Barbezat: the Chronograph maker from Le Locle

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In 1888 Charles Barbezat - a watchmaker form from LeLocle - started the LE PHARE watch company. His specialty: complicated pocket watches, especially chronographs. At that time most high grade timepieces were mainly finished and adjusted by individual watchmakers, but Berbezat was in a way a pioneer of a more "industrial" approach leading to a greater output.

LE PHARE's business grew and in the 1970s it was one of the largest chronometer manufacturers in Switzerland. The brand was later 'absorbed' by Jean d'Eve which is still in business today.

Today I had the opportunity to work on a single pusher column wheel chronograph signed LE PHARE. Unfortunately the last person who 'took care of it' was not really familiar with the workings of this type of stop-watch work which resulted in a number of components being either incorrectly positioned or simply 'tensioned' in the wrong direction.

After an hour of disassembling and re-assembling, I got the chrono work ticking again. Which is rather good news because hand making any of the steel levers and retaining springs is really time consuming.

The porcelain dial is still intact, almost as good as when it was 'baked' in the early 1900s. Blue the screws, highly polished steel levers and the contrasting gold plates are what makes this Barbezat chronograph a very eye-pleasing timepiece.

The watch is now ready for a complete overhaul which would include disassembly, polishing of steel parts, cleaning, oiling and adjustment but I have no doubt that a finished job would be rewarding.

The only problem now is finding time to actually do it :-(

Premium: Who you follow determines your final destination.

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If you have recently subscribed to our newsletter then you may not be aware that the newsletter has been around since September 2001. Some years were busier than others, but we are still very excited about keeping you updated with new watch arrivals.

It would be too modest to ignore your feedback: thanks to this very newsletter, many of you now regard us as not just 'another second hand watch dealer' but someone who week after week provides valuable content and helps you to have a better understanding of horology.

Actually, you often say that the 'Watchmaker's Newsletter' is your most anticipated piece of email and something you read first, without delay. You appreciate and understand the amount of work that goes into each and every email. And yes, quite frankly, even a two-paragraph newsletter with a bunch of images could take a whole day to prepare because we are not a 'copy and paste cat' but rather providers of original content.

The bottom line is: you love it, the readership is increasing steadily and we are grateful for your long standing support.

There is however one small detail: in recent months we have been receiving frequent requests for what you call a 'premium' list. Some of you feel that as we grow, the chances of snatching that desirable timepiece are diminishing. Others want even more 'personal' content, more frequent emails, more horology or to be placed on a priority alert list.

For years, we purposely avoided the creation of any exclusive list. The truth is, we still believe that the best way to sell pre-owned watches is on a first come, first served basis. The second reason to keep the things as they are: we have already stretched our resources and more administrative work means less watchmaking. The third reason: this mailing list should remain FREE to all.

However those who call themselves 'experts in customer service' have convinced me that when there is a strong demand for a 'product' then we should do our best to meet those expectations and provide a frequently requested service.

As of this week, in addition to our existing FREE mailing list, we will accept subscriptions to our Premium list. For just $99 per year you will receive 52 Premium Newsletters.

I can straight away list 20 reasons why you should immediately go to a Premium subscription. Instead, let me just point out two:

1. As a Premium subscriber you will be entitled to a $99 refund on your next watch purchase. You get your subscription money back, and still remain on Premium list.

2. You will be entitled to TWO free Insurance Valuations in your first year as paid subscriber. As we charge $95 per valuation to our regular customers, not only you will get your subscription money back AND remain on the Premium list but you will be $91 ahead.

With an offer like this, I will sleep well knowing that the deal is fair and mutually beneficial. Actually, the offer is so good that you will never request to be unsubscribed!

For the majority of our existing subscribers, things will remain exactly as they are: a free mailing list with plenty of new arrivals, mailed out 3 or 4 times per week - an email you would be proud to receive and forward to your friends.

And for those who want even more exciting deals, who understand that timing is everything and appreciate the value of professional service, Premium will be a logical step forward.

"Which way should I go ?" asked Alice.
"Where do you want to go?" replied the Cat.
"Oh, it really doesn't matter." answered Alice.
"Then it really doesn't make any difference which way you go." grinned the Cheshire Cat.

To find out 18 more reasons why YOU should follow your favorite Watchmaker and go Premium, click

www.clockmaker.com.au/premium

to subscribe.


Your watch is a PRECISION INSTRUMENT

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He arrived last Thursday, well dressed, wearing a $12,800 Rolex. "I would like to buy a Panerai Destro with 56 hours power reserve". Obviously money was not an issue and he appeared to be reasonably sure about his choice.

I sensed that something was unusual even before the transaction was completed: while I was doing my best to explain how to wind the watch and set the time he was taking photos of the watch with his mobile device, uploading them on what appeared to be a social networking website, counting the number of "likes".

Yesterday morning, precisely at 8:29 I received a distressed email from the new Panerai owner: the watch was dead. Attached, was a 27 seconds video clip which should have helped me pinpoint the problem and provide an instant solution.

The video was both graphic and deeply disturbing.

A few years ago we ran a small survey titled: "If you are to select one 'crown' reason for purchasing a high quality mechanical watch, what would that be?" To our surprise, the top answer was 'sophistication'.

But sophistication cannot be bought or inherited. It is the result of a painful effort which "machines" our entire being, turning us from the Neanderthal to the Homosapien in a matter of one short lifetime. And ironically, the bulk of machining is done by us.

A fine mechanical watch is foremost and above all a PRECISION INSTRUMENT. Not an accessory to enhance your beauty or device which just tells the time. And this simple statement is the foundation, a corner stone on which you will build your watch appreciation and, if you want it, sophistication.

To his credit, the owner of the Panerai allowed me to share the video publicly, for educational purpose.

While you may find the opening moments intense, I find the last 5 seconds the most challenging.

The bottom line: there is a good reason why watches come with an instruction manual. And paying attention to the 'how to use it' instructions at the time of purchase is absolutely essential.

*** Before we go any further: this is what we call sophistication

Can you imagine the quality of a tool capable of cutting into a solid block of steel with such power that it looks like it's cutting a block of cheddar cheese? Can you comprehend, just for a moment, the precision required to turn that block of steel into a V8 engine? The forces required to flick the 500kg piece, turn it around, maneuver it and then bring it to the exact position, to one hundredth of millimeter? The heat, the finishes, the stream of coolant? Countless hours to write the piece of software? And the years of designing, improvement and engineering which went into the building of the Matsuura Maxia MAM72-63V 5-axis CNC mill?

Believe it or not, the challenges in the manufacturing of YOUR wrist watches are no less dramatic. Respect!

1972 Rolex 1680 Red Submariner: one original owner.

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You love your red Submariners? Me too!

This lovely example of a 1680 red Sub manufactured in the last quarter of 1972 just arrived to our workshop for a complete overhaul. The bracelet had virtually disintegrated, but the good old Subbie suffered no other damage.

Naturally this was a great opportunity to chat with the original owner who got it in 1975. That's right - the watch sat in a dealer's shop unsold for over two years! The Red 1680 Submariner was hardly a hot selling item back then :-).

The owner has had it since then and except for a couple of services in the late 80s and one in 2007, the watch spent 38 years happily ticking on his wrist.

"Would you like to know what your watch is worth today" - I had to ask.

"Yes, I would - but It really does not matter to me. It is the sentimental value, not the monetary one that makes it special. But I do remember what my wife paid for it: exactly $250, from a dealer on Norfolk Island - where we went for our honeymoon!"

Getting this one back to good working order is now more a matter of pleasure and enjoyment and my top priority. I just LOVE red subs!

Now, you may say that finding a red sub is not a big deal, there are hundreds of them out there on eBay and from online sellers.

I respectfully disagree. Pieces which are put together, and contain both original and aftermarket Rolex parts are not what serious collectors are interested in.

Good stuff - watches bought and worn by one original owner - are extremely hard to find and almost impossible to buy. As our customer said: money cannot buy memories.

One thing you can help me with: who was the Rolex dealer and what was the name of the shop on Norfolk Island that operated there in the 1970s?

Stay tuned for post-service photos!

Rolex Submariner 1680 Red - restoration, part II

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Rolex 1680 The Red Sub

While we are still on the quest for the 'missing puzzle' - Which shop sold Rolex watches on Norfolk Island in 1970s? the owner of the Red Sub was anxious to get his baby back, so I got straight into Red restoration.

Before you see the photos, couple of points on what a true and faithful collectors of vintage Rolex watches regard as the 'honest way' to restore a watch:

- Mechanism: complete overhaul. Worn out or broken parts are to be replaced. For the same reason you would replace a brake pads on 1972 Porsche, you should replace movement components which are essential and responsible for time keeping. Remember: if it doesn't tell the time, it's not a watch!

- case parts: light polish only. This is done by hand, of course. Plexy glass: again, polish only. Original bezel insert should be retained for two reasons: originality and distinctive vintage look.

- bracelet: a worn out bracelet must be replaced! Again, you would not restore a vintage car and drive it around 'preserving' the 50 years old set of tires. Old bracelet should be preserved, but not attached to a newly restored watch.

- case seal: rubber seal should be replace. This is not optional! While vintage watches are no longer expected to be water resistant, seals are meant to be replaced regardless.

- dial and hands: this is actually the most important bit. The dial and hands should NEVER be replaced. Dial replacement is sacrilegious! Not only the new dial would spoil the look but it would significantly devalue the watch.

In other words, a proper restoration means bringing the watch in good working order wile preserving as much of it's character and originality, whenever that is possible. Like with any restoration, the end result should never become irreversible.

Once again, vintage watches should not be worn in water. When worn daily, extra care and attention should be taken. After all, we are just guardians- beautiful pieces will outlive it's custodians and will be passed on to the next generation of careful are respectful owners.

At least we hope so.

Case disassembly

the 'red' dial was manufactured by dial maker Beyeler, Geneve

the mainspring was dry, long overdue for cleaning, polishing and lubrication

movement disassembled, components ready for cleaning

main spring polished and lubricated

balance wheel

movement assembled

dial

hands assembly

checking for clearence

movement assembled !

Plexiglas polishing

by hand :-)

more plexi polishing

"brushing" the lugs - refinishing

case cleaning

not bad :-)

almost there

ready to go!

As you would imagine, this quick 'show and tell' blog entry covers only some of steps involved in restoration which took approximately 6 hours. Holding the camera with one hand and assembling the watch with other is challenge I am yet to master :-)

Zenith Cal. 400Z El Primero column wheel chronograph

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One of common requests is for 'more movement images' and I am always glad to share what is going on 'behing the scene'.

Zenith Cal. 400Z El Primero column wheel chronograph is one of my favourite watches. Photos below are for those who share the passion for precision and workmanship.

$1 Rolex: Brace yourself for an insane offer !

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I'm known in the watch industry for being different.

I buy watches, sell watches, repair watches, and run two of the only watch newsletters every week for my customers. I run my business my way, and very much enjoy what I do.

Next week, however, I might go a little too far. There is a limit to craziness, and discounting a watch over 99.9% is somewhere even ebay veterans fear to go.

This next week's Premium Newsletter will contain an offer for one person to buy a Rolex Explorer II (serial number starting with Z) for the insane price of... just $1.

Now this is how we're going to do it:

1. The first Premium subscriber to reply to the newsletter offer will get the watch
2. The watch must be paid for in full ($1), and picked up in person from our shop in Sydney.
If you are not from Sydney, you can send a friend/relative to pick it up on your behalf.

If you're not already a Premium subscriber ( http://www.clockmaker.com.au/premium ) then sign up as soon as possible to get in on the action. Then keep an eye on your inbox and your trigger finger on your mouse while you wait for our premium email to arrive in your inbox sometimes between Monday Oct 21 - Friday Oct 25.

As you know, this Rolex Explorer II on the pre-owned market would run $5,000-$6,000+. The picture above is the actual picture of the Explorer II.

Obviously, the first reason for such a deal is to get you subscribed to my Premium newsletter.

The second reason for this crazy sale: I've always wanted to be known as the dealer who sold a Rolex for $1. I simply want to be the first to claim such an insane title.

Let's have some fun!

Happy collecting,

Nick Hacko

And the winner is: Tomas Price!

Congratulations to Tomas Price, whose swift fingers allowed him to clinch our Rolex deal. We were able to film the entire event from the moment we sent the email out, and all the chaos that followed. Fun fact: While selling a Rolex can take hours to months depending on the type of client, selling a Rolex for $1 only takes 26 seconds. I'd like to thank everyone for participating and making our first event of this type a great success - keep your eyes peeled for more to come. You can view the video here. Pictures of our winner picking up his watch are shown below:





Trouble in Paradise

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The other day we received a Rolex GMT in the mail.
One of those 'never seen before' jobs.
The bracelet was twisted with such force that I had no choice but
to email the owner to find what happened to both him and his poor Rolex.




In reply, he sends us photos of idyllic Seychelles.
And right on the beach there is that to-die-for house
he owns - where he spends most of the year in leisure.



So - one day while doing some repairs on the roof, he slipped.
On his way down, his Rolex got snagged on the gutter and broke some of the
momentum of his descent.

Luckily, he survived with no damage, partially thanks to the watch
snag significantly slowing him on the way down.
Unfortunately, the Rolex's fate is still unknown.
While the bracelet did get badly twisted, the watch stayed on the wrist - this
is a credit to its durability and robustness.
On the other hand, if the pins had given in, there would be hardly any other damage to
the bracelet and this would be an easy and inexpensive repair. However if he had been
somewhere else, like a boat, the watch might've fallen and been lost forever.

The bottom line: don't wear your Rolex when fixing the roof.
And ESPECIALLY not so when operating power tools or other machinery.
In case of an accident, something will have to give in.
You don't want to find out if it's your wrist or your watch.

Today I have finished my restoration of the bracelet. This included replacement of steel pins, re-pinning, and replacement of sleeves, among other tasks. Everything was done by hand and was worked on-and-off over two days. It has come a long way from when I received it, and you can see the last steps of the restoration below:












Clocks and Automatons : Androides Jaquet-Droz

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Those of you that caught it, I'm sure enjoyed last night's BBC documentary
on clockwork and automata.
Coincidently, just a couple weeks ago we mentioned this documentary
by providing a link to an online clip with detailed biographical details of Jaquet-Droz,
the clever watchmaker and clockmaker, maker of the Writing Boy automaton.

If your imagination was captured by the intricate workings of mechanical
ingenuity and you got a glimpse of how difficult it was to create such a masterpiece
in the mid 1700s, then viewing was time well spent.

However, I was disappointed with the number of non-horological conclusions and dramatization
of the narrator. Some of them were simply stretching and reinterpreting the history of automata
in a very speculative way. Others were just pure fantasy.

A couple of examples: Jaquet Droz's automatas were not responsible
for events leading to the French revolution. His intention was not to
imitate life and the appearance of kings and queens in his work.
It would be like saying that Utzon's Opera House was reason
for change in the government of NSW.
Utzon was a genius, visionary, and artist who could not care less about
politics, or even opera. And so was Pierre Jaquet Droz.

Droz made his magical automata because these intricate pieces were
'sitting' inside his mind. The mechanical creation was just a materialization
of mechanical working no one else before him had though of, imagined,
or was able to create. He was also a well-known, accomplished clockmaker
and watchmaker, which he used in a way of marketing.
Basically, with his automata he was saying, "This is who I am and this is what I am capable of.
There are many watchmakers out there, but I am head and shoulders above
my competition."
And he was.

Another amateur interpretation is the explanation for appearance of medieval city clocks.
Suggesting that "towns build clocks so citizens can live in peace and order,"
was a great miss of the obvious.

Town clocks are a direct result of ordinary man's fascination with the
heavens, which was far greater many centuries ago than it is today.
The large clocks showing the sun, moon, and planets were just
replicas of table-sized astronomical clocks which first appeared as early as the 1300s.
For a town to have a large, complex astronomical clock was a sign of wealth,
sophistication, and artistic sense. This is precisely why Australians are proud of the Opera House.

Adding an automata to clockwork was just another level of complication
which attracted travellers from far and wide to visit the town
with that most amazing, almost magical, clock.

Such grand clocks were built to mystify the viewer, to fascinate and amaze.
Like automata, they were built virtually regardless of expense,
and their like had never been seen before.

In order to produce such masterpieces, the most famous clockmakers not only had to have
profound knowledge of mathematics and astronomy, but also of metallurgy.
For over 700 years (from the birth of the mechanical clock until the end of the 18th century)
the leading clockmakers were probably the most skilled and ingenious group of
craftsmen to inhabit this world.

The watch you wear today is just a miniaturized, mass-produced, simplified, and
reduced-to-bare-basics replica of those grand timepieces.

One can see a watch as a miracle of mechanical engineering,
a precision instrument, piece of jewellery, or an object of art.

But reducing it down to mere brand name is unfortunately
a clear sign of a lack of basic understanding and appreciation of horology.

Listed below is our original article:

*** Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his marvelous world of mechanical automata


Today I got an email from Stewart F, a subscriber, about how he just discovered a "clip from a BBC4 show which demonstrates a remarkable piece of design. My kids and I have watched the film 'Hugo' several times and I am pretty sure I assumed that the automaton that features there was the invention of a script writer - not so at all."

I am not going to spoil your enjoyment, but here is a brief intro:
Pierre Jaquet-Droz was a Swiss-born watchmaker of the late eighteenth century.
He lived in Paris, London, and Geneva, where he designed and built animated dolls, or automata,
to help his firm sell watches and mechanical birds.

http://www.chonday.com/Videos/the-writer-automaton

You can watch the clip and then return to our article to read more.

"The Best Offer" - with Geoffrey Rush - a story centered on an eccentric art auctioneer is another movie featuring 'automata' doll. I am sure you'll enjoy it.



Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721-1790)
Born on July 28, 1721 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Pierre Jaquet-Droz was the son of a farmer who was an occasional clockmaker as well. He studied humanities and philosophy in Basel from 1738 to 1739 and then became interested in horology. We know little of him as a person, only that he was sober, serious, taciturn, and very careful in his work. On October 25, 1750, Pierre Jaquet-Droz married Marianne Sandoz, the daughter of Civil Lieutenant Abraham Louis Sandoz, who was later to accompany Pierre on his trip to Spain. At the age of thirty-four, Pierre Jaquet-Droz was left a widower. He never remarried, and seems to have devoted himself to his work as a watchmaker with all the more intensity. The second child of Pierre Jaquet-Droz and his wife Marianne, Henry-Louis, was born on October 13, 1752. Recognizing that he was a gifted child, his father sent him to Nancy to study music, science, mathematics, physics and drawing. In 1758, Jaquet-Droz made the long and difficult journey to Spain, to present his works to King Ferdinand VI.

When he returned, the sum he brought back enabled him to devote himself to the making of the famous Jaquet-Droz automata, the writer, draughtsman, and musician, and to found the successful Jaquet-Droz firm, in London and Geneva, for the making of extraordinary mechanical and musical pieces. Upon his return in 1769, Henry-Louis took his place in his father's work-shop alongside Jean-Frederic Leschot (1746-1824), an adoptive son. It was the beginning of a close and fruitful partnership between the three men. Pierre Jaquet-Droz was the first to make singing bird boxes and enjoyed an excellent reputation for complicated clocks, Neuchâtel clocks and automaton timepieces. When Pierre Jaquet-Droz grew old, the firm was taken over by his son Henry-Louis and Jean Frédéric Leschot, under the name of Jaquet-Droz & Leschot. Pierre Jaquet-Droz died in Biel in 1790, at the age of 69.

Prague Astronomical clock

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Installed in 1411 this is the third oldest astronomical clock in the world and the only one still in perfect working order.

Drawing by Tanya H.

Introducing the DivorceMaker 3.0

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There is no other watch winder out there that would test your relationship
like the DivorceMaker. Apart from a written approval from your wife,
you would also need a Council permit to install such a powerful piece of equipment.

It is big. It is heavy. It glows in the dark. It is 100% silent.
And yes, it will leave your watch mates speechless.

Of course, once you bring it home, you will sleep on the couch until Christmas.
But it is worth it. The most salivated-over 9 unit watch winder we have ever dared to display.

Built for the bravest of all, and priced accordingly. $1,800.





We also carry a range of smaller winders for the newlyweds.
See them at http://clockmaker.com.au/winders

The Top 6 most ridiculous closing lines

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Luckily this does not happen all the time, but it does every now and then.
When it does happen, it is so painfully predictable that you can set your time by it.

A brief introduction-

You call for an appointment because there is a watch you are interested in.
Of course, before making a final decision, you would like to see and try a few more.
And that is all fine; exactly how it should be.

You arrive on time. The stock is on the table, and I am all yours - to assist you, answer your every question, clarify, guide, advise, and help in the decision making process.
Exactly what you should expect. Exactly what I am trained to do.

After 20 minutes, it becomes obvious that you are not ready to make a decision, here and now today. And that is just fine. Buying an expensive watch takes time, and sometimes it takes more than one visit to close a deal. If you are not ready to part with your cash right here and now, you are not going to break my heart.
Nor hurt my feelings, nor disappoint me. I am just a salesman, and quite frankly, I don't need to close each and every deal right here and now. If I don't have the right watch or if the right watch does not fit you, or does not meet your expectation, or the price is too high, then there is really nothing I can do for you - except to shake your hand and hopefully see you again soon.

But for some strange, unexplainable reason, 30 minutes later you are still sitting in my chair, unable to walk away from the deal which is not going to happen.

You know you are not going to buy it.
I know you are not going to buy it.
Even the next buyer who is patiently sitting in a corner waiting for his turn knows you are not going to buy it.

Yet instead of shaking my hand and saying thank you and see you next time, you have an urge to conclude the rendezvous with a silly, inappropriate, and painfully predictable sentence. A sentence, which in your mind, would perfectly explain WHY you have decided not to buy right here and now. A sentence which is totally unnecessary and equally inappropriate.

Here is my list of "The Top 6 most ridiculous closing lines":

6. "I would take it, but only if you take my Amex card with no surcharge".

I seem to recall that I have told you that I am not setup to take Amex. Three times.

Many years ago I made that business decision and I will never regret it.
Even if I could take your Amex, I cannot pay Amex a 2.8 % provision just for the sake of selling you a watch. I am not in a partnership with Amex. Amex is not in the watch business. I am not paying for your reward points. If Amex has promised you that you can use their piece of plastic in my shop to get a bunch of silly points, then you'd better call them and tell them that you can't.
But they already know that.
Once Amex brings their surcharge fee to the same level as Visa or Master Card then I may reconsider.
Until then - no food, no pets, and no Amex on my premises.

5. "I would take it, but only if you were open on Saturday/Sunday".

Another version of this excuse is, 'can you stay open until 10 pm on Monday or open at 6:30am Tuesday because that may be a better time for me.'

Business hours are called business hours because they are the time of day set apart to do business.
Otherwise you will show up at 2am like I am some crazy Seven Eleven.

Yes, I start late and finish early, but as clearly stated, we operate by appointment.
The reason is simple: our stock is secured in a safe deposit box in one of the banks and if the bank is closed, we are closed. Nothing personal, but this is just one rule I cannot change, even if I want to. Government organizations, banks, city professionals, AND many retailers are closed over the weekend. After all, you don't expect me to ring your bell at 4 am Sunday and I don't expect you to ring mine either.

4. "I would take it, but I am still not sure if the watch is original".

While all other excuses on this list are just lame excuses, this comment is plainly an insult.
You've been on my website hundreds of times, you've seen the watch, and know that watch comes with TWO legal documents to verify that the watch is genuine (tax invoice and insurance valuation). You are even a subscriber to this newsletter, but if you still feel an urge to insult me by questioning both my expertise and integrity, then you are just an idiot.

3. "I would take it, if it comes with box and papers".

This excuse makes me cry.

You are happy to be intimate with a total stranger just after 2 drinks, happy to take unmarked pills that can kill you, happy to smoke, drink, risk your life by riding a bike like a maniac on busy Sydney streets, holiday in Bali, eat in filthy, cockroach infested restaurants, yet you are so bloody determined to pass on a PERFECT watch at a fantastic price just because it does not come with a $2 cardboard box. The same cardboard box which you will store in cabinet and never see again, then lose in the next house move.

2. "I would take it, but there is a small scratch here, can you see it?".

No, I can't. That scratch exists only in your imagination.
If it was there, I would see it and remove it.
And even if there was one almost minuscule imperfection, so what?
You will scuff or scratch that watch by Friday anyway.
And guess what Mr Perfect: even brand new watches often come with small scuff marks or light discoloration.
This is just the nature of the MATERIAL world we live in.

If you can't accept reality then you don't really need a watch.
Or a car. Or a pet, partner, neighbor.
What you need is a trip to Bangladesh or Pakistan and a good dose of hard, unapologetic, uncoated reality.

1. "I would take it, but I can't until I first talk to my wife"

You are supposed to be in Paris. But you hope that a 800 Euros detour to Cannes charged to the company Amex will most likely be overlooked.

La Palme d'Or, the two Michelin star restaurant, overlooking the Riviera, is all as per your expectation -cuisine délicate et raffinée. Oysters with local the local ballet. Two tables away, an Angelina Jolie look-alike.

A minute later, she waves, signalling that she would like you to join her table.

"Are you...?"

Yes she is. Brad and the kids are still in LA, arriving late tomorrow.

"Why me...?" you want to ask, but your lips are not moving.

Slowly and patiently, she reveals the reason for this sudden invitation.

She could not help but to notice your TAG Carrera.
A sign of sophistication, good taste, and strong character - the three ultimate virtues she regards so highly.

But she is in a need of help and she hopes that you may be the right person to get her out of trouble. With bit of sadness, and a shadow of embarrassment for having to ask a favor form a stranger, she opens her heart.

Just few hours ago, a dozen of Patek watches were delivered to her and she now needs to choose one to wear at tomorrow's premiere. A watch aficionado and gentleman like yourself should be able to easily recommending the right one, but there is a small problem. Instead of delivery to hotel, there was a bit of mix up, and the watches are now on her yacht, anchored 3 kilometers south. Of course, it is only a five minutes flight by helicopter over the indigo blue Mediterranean sea (you can now hear the roar of the helicopter). But the weather is getting worse and she is worried that she may have to ask you to stay the night on her yacht. Or at least until breakfast. If this is not too much of an inconvenience, of course.

Now, you are left with a few choices.

For the rest of your life, you will either be remembered in horological circles as the jerk who refused to help poor Angelina, or the jerk who said, "Sure - I'll be happy to help, but let me just call my wife first and ask for her approval".

The truth is simple. At 4:30AM Sydney time, your wife just does not care about you, or about the Pateks or even about Angelina, so don't use her as a lame excuse.

And the painful truth is that Angelina does not care either.

So you better put on your best smile and crack an Aussie joke while running to the helipad, or you will be remembered as the time-wasting embarrassment to all men down under and every single watch owner on the planet.

And on that 18 hours flight home, you can only kid yourself that Carl from accounting will not pick up on those 800 Euros on next statement.

C'est la vie mon amie.

I am not Angelina. And you should not make excuses.
But if you foolishly insist, then pick the least embarrassing: tell the truth.

Walking the walk - Large wrists? No problem! Extra long straps in stock

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A couple years ago I wrote an article in which, in fairly strong terms,
I questioned some economic fundamentals.

Here is one such example:
Since when does two pairs of Italian leather shoes cost less than an Italian leather watch strap?

And more importantly, why are we all so gullible to accept and put up with such craziness?

The answer to both questions is the same:
there is just not enough competition in the watch strap market!

Oh yes, I am always happy to be whinging about something -- but talk is cheap.

When the zero/nine project came along, it was obvious that
I would be in need of some decent, hand-made, hand-stitched Italian leather straps.

One thing lead to another, and a few months later
I'd found a manufacturer who is willing to support our project.

The first batch of straps is now sitting on my desk.

Of course, this baby step is just that - a small attempt to offer you something
I am proud of. A watch strap I can sign with my own name.

If you are blessed with a 'normal' size wrist then there are hundreds of
watches already fitted with a strap that will easily fit your wrist.
Finding a spare or replacement strap is easy.
What you are unaware of is an even larger group of Australian men
who simply can not find a strap to fit their large wrists!

This is the second reason why I wanted my own straps:
each and every colour and width would also come as an XL version.
"I like it, but do you have an XL size?" Yes, I do. In stock.

I am not going to bore you with all the stuff you already know about leather straps.
That a good strap is as important as a watch itself. That ladies may have never heard
of Panerai or Breitling, yet they can spot straight away without any mistake,
exotic leather, quality of stitching, and the unique charm of a vintage and robust look.

The bottom line is this: right now, I can offer you only two styles of straps in two sizes and with two
different lengths. I welcome your order. If you have a Panerai, Breitling, Omega, or any other watch
which is fitted with either 22mm or 24mm, give me a call. Or even better, visit me in person.

I am new to straps but I am convinced that the NH strap will meet your expectations.
I am also happy to offer a 1 year guarantee, just in case. Peace of mind.

Price: $88 regardless of style or size. Buy two or more and receive a free shipping.









Style A
Chocolate brown calf with croco pattern
22mm standard
22mm XL
24mm standard
24mm XL
$88 each



Style B
Pilots Vintage Jacket Raw Sienna Natural, calf
22mm standard
22mm XL
24mm standard
24mm XL
$88 each



More styles coming soon!



Tower clock. Altes Rathaus, Marienplatz, Munich

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